{"id":34115,"date":"2015-08-18T13:42:32","date_gmt":"2015-08-18T11:42:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/non-categorise\/across-central-asia-in-a-renault-4\/"},"modified":"2025-10-18T22:55:12","modified_gmt":"2025-10-18T20:55:12","slug":"across-central-asia-in-a-renault-4","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/en\/adventure\/across-central-asia-in-a-renault-4\/","title":{"rendered":"Across Central Asia in a Renault 4"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>[et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; admin_label=&#8221;section&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; custom_margin=&#8221;0px||||false|false&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px||||false|false&#8221;][et_pb_row use_custom_gutter=&#8221;on&#8221; gutter_width=&#8221;1&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;100%&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;0px|0px|0px|0px|false|false&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;0px|0px||0px|false|false&#8221; locked=&#8221;off&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_slider show_pagination=&#8221;off&#8221; module_id=&#8221;custom-paralax&#8221; module_class=&#8221;custom-slider&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; background_image=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/Conference_Matthieu.jpg&#8221; parallax=&#8221;on&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;||||false|false&#8221; auto=&#8221;on&#8221; auto_speed=&#8221;3000&#8243;][et_pb_slide _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; background_enable_color=&#8221;off&#8221; background_image=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/Asie-centrale-carrousel-1.jpg&#8221; background_enable_image=&#8221;on&#8221; parallax=&#8221;on&#8221; parallax_method=&#8221;off&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;50px||||false|false&#8221; sticky_transition=&#8221;on&#8221;][\/et_pb_slide][et_pb_slide _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; background_enable_color=&#8221;off&#8221; background_image=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/Asie-centrale-carrousel-5.jpg&#8221; background_enable_image=&#8221;on&#8221; parallax=&#8221;on&#8221; parallax_method=&#8221;off&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;50px||||false|false&#8221; sticky_transition=&#8221;on&#8221;][\/et_pb_slide][et_pb_slide _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; background_enable_color=&#8221;off&#8221; background_image=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/Asie-centrale-carrousel-2.jpg&#8221; background_enable_image=&#8221;on&#8221; parallax=&#8221;on&#8221; parallax_method=&#8221;off&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;50px||||false|false&#8221; sticky_transition=&#8221;on&#8221;][\/et_pb_slide][et_pb_slide _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; background_enable_color=&#8221;off&#8221; background_image=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/Asie-centrale-carrousel-3.jpg&#8221; background_enable_image=&#8221;on&#8221; parallax=&#8221;on&#8221; parallax_method=&#8221;off&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;50px||||false|false&#8221; sticky_transition=&#8221;on&#8221;][\/et_pb_slide][et_pb_slide _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; background_enable_color=&#8221;off&#8221; background_image=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/Asie-centrale-carrousel-4.jpg&#8221; background_enable_image=&#8221;on&#8221; parallax=&#8221;on&#8221; parallax_method=&#8221;off&#8221; custom_padding=&#8221;50px||||false|false&#8221; sticky_transition=&#8221;on&#8221;][\/et_pb_slide][\/et_pb_slider][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; width=&#8221;75%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;90%&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;30px||||false|false&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; header_font=&#8221;|300|||||||&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; header_font_size=&#8221;40px&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;||0px||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h1>ACROSS CENTRAL ASIA IN A RENAULT 4<\/h1>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_code _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; locked=&#8221;off&#8221;]<\/p>\n<div class=\"black-thin-line\"><!-- [et_pb_line_break_holder] -->  <!-- [et_pb_line_break_holder] --><\/div>\n<p>[\/et_pb_code][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;22px&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;||0px||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><em>From Lake Baikal to Samarkand<\/em><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;30px||||false|false&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;20px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;2em&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Le Bureau des R\u00eaves is an expedition led in 2014 &#8211; 2015 by Louis-Hubert d&#8217;Harambure and Thibault de Colnet whose aim was to gather the aspirations of local populations around the world. They traveled successively in Europe, Asia, Africa and South America. While Thibault was away for a while last summer, I joined my friend Louis-Hubert on the shores of Lake Baikal in Russia for an 8,000-kilometer journey in a 4L across ancient Turkestan&#8230;  <\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; width=&#8221;100%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;100%&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_code _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; hover_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243; sticky_enabled=&#8221;0&#8243;]<iframe loading=\"lazy\" width=\"100%\" height=\"400px\" src=\"https:\/\/api.mapbox.com\/styles\/v1\/matthieutordeur\/cl0pjny34001t15s8p66spz3c.html?title=false&amp;access_token=pk.eyJ1IjoibWF0dGhpZXV0b3JkZXVyIiwiYSI6ImNsMGd5Z2JtazAxeHUzanA1djFlMjR5YmEifQ.B2RIIEbvXbVCQLuUV5jVRg&amp;zoomwheel=false#2.38\/45.54\/84.99\" title=\"Central Asia\" style=\"border:none;\"><\/iframe>[\/et_pb_code][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=&#8221;1_2,1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; width=&#8221;90%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;90%&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/22059040649_a811382f33_o.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;22059040649_a811382f33_o&#8221; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">Camp on the green plains of the Altai Krai in Siberia, Russia. Louis-Hubert d&#8217;Harambure <\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/IMG_9406.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;IMG_9406&#8243; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">In the Kazakh steppe, the hot air disrupts the 4L&#8217;s cooling system. Kazakhstan. Louis-Hubert d&#8217;Harambure  <\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; width=&#8221;90%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;90%&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/IMG_0194.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;IMG_0194&#8243; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">Village of Sary-Tash in the Ala\u00ef valley in southern Kyrgyzstan.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=&#8221;1_2,1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; width=&#8221;90%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;90%&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/IMG_0286.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;IMG_0286&#8243; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">Kyrgyzstan is 90% mountainous, with more than half of the country above 2,500 meters altitude. The majority of the population lives in rural areas and depends on livestock breeding and agriculture. Ala\u00ef Valley, Kyrgyzstan.  <\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/IMG_0278.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;IMG_0278&#8243; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">Summer pastures are coveted territories for livestock feed. Ala\u00ef Valley, Kyrgyzstan. <\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; width=&#8221;90%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;90%&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/IMG_0332.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;IMG_0332&#8243; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">The M41, better known as the Pamir Highway, links Osh, the second-largest city in Kyrgyzstan, to Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan. It is one of the highest roads in the world. Built by the Soviets between 1931 and 1934 to facilitate troop transport and supplies, it is perched on a high plateau between 4,000 and 5,000 meters above sea level, and crosses the Pamir mountain range.  <\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=&#8221;1_2,1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; width=&#8221;90%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;90%&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/IMG_9557.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;IMG_9557&#8243; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Bivouac in the Ala\u00ef valley in southern Kyrgyzstan. In the half-light, Peak Lenin salutes us from its 7,000-meter heights. Louis-Hubert d&#8217;Harambure  <\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/IMG_9603.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;IMG_9603&#8243; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">The region&#8217;s lakes alone are worth a visit to Central Asia. Louis-Hubert d&#8217;Harambure <\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; width=&#8221;90%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;90%&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/IMG_0312.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;IMG_0312&#8243; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">The borders separating the various Central Asian republics were drawn by Stalin between 1924 and 1936, with the main aim of fragmenting their populations and drowning out separatism. The Ferghana Valley, shared between Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, is a good illustration of this layout. Today, however, this policy of ethnic fragmentation is proving to be explosive between the different peoples, who are mixed together.  <\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=&#8221;1_2,1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; width=&#8221;90%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;90%&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/IMG_0367.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;IMG_0367&#8243; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>20 km of no-man&#8217;s-land between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. To reach the Tajik border post, we have to climb this dirt track which leads to the Kyzyl-Art pass at 4,282 meters. <\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/IMG_0395.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;IMG_0395&#8243; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>It&#8217;s on the second attempt that we&#8217;ll overcome the pass, at the bottom of the first. Louis-Hubert d&#8217;Harambure <\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; width=&#8221;90%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;90%&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/IMG_0447.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;IMG_0447&#8243; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">We reach Lake Karakul. Created by a meteorite impact 10 million years ago, it stands at 3,914 metres and claims the title of the world&#8217;s highest navigable lake, ahead of Lake Titicaca. Soon the road disappears behind the Ak-Ba\u00eftal &#8211; &#8220;white horse&#8221; &#8211; pass, at 4,655 metres. The mountain slopes are sublimated by the clouds which, in a steady sweep, obscure their ochre hue. Upper Badakhshan, Tajikistan.    <\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=&#8221;1_2,1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; width=&#8221;90%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;90%&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/IMG_9629.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;IMG_9629&#8243; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Our hosts are Kyrgyz shepherds, like most of the inhabitants of eastern Tajikistan. Upper Badakhshan, Tajikistan. \u00a9 Louis-Hubert d&#8217;Harambure  <\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/IMG_0503.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;IMG_0503&#8243; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>When we wake up, Salamate hastens to serve us &#8220;kurut&#8221;, a small ball of dried curd with a distinctive flavor. Upper Badakhshan, Tajikistan. <\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; width=&#8221;90%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;90%&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/IMG_0558.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;IMG_0558&#8243; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">In the yurt, warmed by the stove, our notions of Russian allow us to exchange a few words. The car and the photos of our families arouse our curiosity and are just one of the ways we can forge links. Here, at an altitude of 4,800 metres, winter temperatures can drop to -40\u00b0C. Upper Badakhshan, Tajikistan.   <\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=&#8221;1_2,1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; width=&#8221;90%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;90%&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/IMG_0511.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;IMG_0511&#8243; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">We were warned in Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, that the hospitality of Kyrgyz nomads is no myth. Upper Badakhshan, Tajikistan. <\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/IMG_0513.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;IMG_0513&#8243; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>Kyrgyz shepherds live mainly from livestock. So it&#8217;s no surprise to find milk in all its forms at breakfast. Upper Badakhshan, Tajikistan.  <\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; width=&#8221;90%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;90%&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/IMG_0740.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;IMG_0740&#8243; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">After a few days riding around Kyrgyzstan, I&#8217;m finally in the saddle! I&#8217;m like a kid, happy to be connected to the asphalt again. I&#8217;m taking a lot of photos, I&#8217;m not going very fast, but that doesn&#8217;t matter. I&#8217;m riding, I&#8217;m on the road, I&#8217;m heading for China.   <\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; width=&#8221;90%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;90%&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/IMG_0683.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;IMG_0683&#8243; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">The rivalry between the British and Russian colonial empires in Asia in the 19th century is known as the &#8220;Great Game&#8221;. Afghanistan, a buffer country between the two empires, was the object of much covetousness. At the end of a tense period that some compare to the Cold War, the Russians and British gave Afghanistan the Wakhan corridor, which served as a barrier between the two giants. Following the Pyanj River, we pass through flower-filled villages and fields where the Wakhis, the inhabitants of the valley, work. On the other side of the river, you can observe Afghan farmers going about their business. Above them loom the peaks of the Hindu Kush range. Wakhan Valley, Tajikistan.      <\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=&#8221;1_2,1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; width=&#8221;90%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;90%&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/IMG_0672.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;IMG_0672&#8243; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">We regularly have to get out of the 4L and clear the runway to be able to move forward. The thin air at an altitude of 4,000 meters puts a strain on the small 34 hp engine. Upper Badakhshan, Tajikistan.  <\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/IMG_0650.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;IMG_0650&#8243; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p>In the Wakhan valley, the Pamir and Wakhan rivers join to form the Pyanj, which we follow for 400 km. Tajikistan on the left, Afghanistan on the right. <\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; width=&#8221;90%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;90%&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/IMG_0779.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;IMG_0779&#8243; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">Young Tajik girl in the Wakhan Valley, Tajikistan.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=&#8221;1_2,1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; width=&#8221;90%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;90%&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/IMG_0695.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;IMG_0695&#8243; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">Along the Afghan border in the Wakhan valley, the villages are very isolated. Opportunities to buy bread are few and far between. Wakhan Valley, Tajikistan.  <\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/IMG_0949.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;IMG_0949&#8243; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">Chess game on a street corner in Samarkand, Uzbekistan.<\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; width=&#8221;90%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;90%&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/IMG_1011.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;IMG_1011&#8243; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">Known as &#8220;duppi&#8221; or &#8220;kalpoq the Uzbek skullcap is an integral part of traditional costume. Samarkand bazaar, Uzbekistan. <\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; width=&#8221;90%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;90%&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/IMG_1039.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;IMG_1039&#8243; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">At the crossroads of the Silk Road, Samarkand is rich in mosques with ceramic-covered domes, Persian-architecture medersas and crowded bazaars. Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan. <\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=&#8221;1_2,1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; width=&#8221;90%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;90%&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/IMG_1063.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;IMG_1063&#8243; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">The ancient heart of Samarkand, Registan means &#8220;sandy square&#8221; in Persian. Samarkand, Uzbekistan. <\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=&#8221;1_2&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/IMG_1067.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;IMG_1067&#8243; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">Tilla-Qari Medersa, Registan. Samarkand, Uzbekistan. <\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; width=&#8221;40%&#8221; max_width=&#8221;90%&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][et_pb_image src=&#8221;https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/02\/IMG_1211-scaled.jpg&#8221; title_text=&#8221;IMG_1211&#8243; show_bottom_space=&#8221;off&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221;][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=&#8221;4.9.10&#8243; _module_preset=&#8221;default&#8221; text_font=&#8221;||on||||||&#8221; text_font_size=&#8221;14px&#8221; text_line_height=&#8221;1.4em&#8221; header_text_align=&#8221;center&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;center&#8221; custom_margin=&#8221;5px||||false|false&#8221;]<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">The aksakal. Literally &#8220;white beard&#8221; refers metaphorically to the oldest and wisest man in the community in some parts of Central Asia. Bukhara, Uzbekistan.  <\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]<\/p>\n<span class=\"et_bloom_bottom_trigger\"><\/span>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>From Lake Baikal to Samarkand<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":32294,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","spay_email":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[62,63],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-34115","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-adventure","category-home-en"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v24.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Across Central Asia in a Renault 4 - Matthieu Tordeur<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/matthieutordeur.com\/en\/adventure\/across-central-asia-in-a-renault-4\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Across Central Asia in a Renault 4 - 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