SCIENTIFIC EXPEDITION IN GREENLAND

1,500 km kite-ski expedition from Ilulissat to Qaanaaq

In June and July 2024, I led an expedition to Greenland with the glaciologist Dr. Heïdi Sevestre to collect scientific data on snow density and the pollution present on the surface of the ice sheet.

For one month, we moved through a natural environment completely devoid of human influence — a landscape deeply sensitive to climate change, characterized by its exceptional remoteness, dryness, and purity.

Unlike heavy, polluting mechanized scientific expeditions, we chose to travel by kite-ski — a lightweight, zero-emission mode of transport. We set off from Ilulissat on the west coast, bound for the Inuit community of Qaanaaq in the far north of the island — a 1,500 km journey by kite-ski.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Ilulissat region is home to the Sermeq Kujalleq Glacier, one of the most active glaciers in the world. It is responsible for about 10% of all icebergs produced in Greenland.

We take advantage of the midnight sun to observe the glacier up close before beginning our expedition northward.

We launch our kites for the first time. They soar into the deep blue sky and gently pull us forward. At this early stage of the expedition, we must absolutely gain altitude — the edge of the ice sheet is riddled with crevasses, meltwater lakes, and rivers.

Our sleds (pulkas) glide smoothly across the all-white landscape. They carry everything we need to live autonomously on the ice sheet: stove, tent, sleeping bag, mat, rope, crevasse rescue gear, rifle (mandatory in case of a polar bear attack), expedition clothing, batteries, solar panels, cameras, satellite communication devices, scientific instruments, repair kits, and a spare pair of skis… Each of us has 30 days of food, 7 liters of fuel, and 4 kites of different sizes. Everything is divided between two pulkas, for a total load of about 120 kg. In the distance, we can still glimpse the mountains and the coast of the ice cap.

Next, we take small snow cores at regular intervals to weigh and measure their temperature. These data are essential to validate satellite observations and estimate how much snow Greenland receives each year.

Our camp sits at 2,400 meters above sea level. Beneath our feet lie several kilometers of ice — dizzying! With climate change, Greenland is currently losing 30 million tons of ice every hour (!). If all the ice were to melt, global sea levels would rise by 7 meters.

Usually, once we’re moving, we stop every two and a half hours to eat and drink. We can kite without worrying about nightfall, as at this time of year the sun never sets. It dips slightly on the horizon, but daylight is permanent.

This luminous phenomenon is caused by the reflection of sunlight on ice crystals in the sky. It was surreal and breathtaking. In these dreamlike conditions, we covered 217 km in a single day!

With a light tailwind, we make wide sweeping motions with our kites, zigzagging across the pristine surface.

Since the beginning of the expedition, I have been collecting snow samples at regular intervals. I melt them and filter them using a syringe filter.

Each filter is carefully preserved and will be delivered, upon my return, to the University of Colorado Boulder (USA). There, they will be analyzed to determine the quantity and origin of black carbon in the snow. Black carbon is a microscopic air pollutant — a residue from fossil fuel and biomass combustion (such as forest fires). When it settles on Greenland’s ice sheet, it darkens the surface and, since dark colors absorb more sunlight, accelerates melting. We say that it affects Greenland’s albedo by reducing its ability to reflect sunlight.

…and finally, take off!

The tent serves both as shelter from the elements and as a barrier against the immensity of the landscape. Inside, a small routine unfolds: set up our sleeping bags, melt ice for water, eat, assess our progress, and rest.

Today we must sail slightly upwind. To do this, we have to edge the skis as much as possible. Our bodies lean to one side to counter the 15 m² wing that constantly tries to pull away from the wind. Bent low, almost sitting, arms outstretched, we pull on the control bars to steer the kite and generate power. But it’s exhausting — our legs burn and beg for relief.

At each camp, I collect a snow sample for filtering and analysis.

As we approach Qaanaaq, mountains begin to appear. We gradually lose altitude. Near the edge of the ice sheet, we cross crevasses (covered by snow bridges) and numerous meltwater rivers, kites still flying above us.

Only 750 meters from our goal, the wind dies. We attach skins to our skis and pull our sleds by hand to reach the snow’s edge.

After 1,500 km of kite-skiing from Ilulissat, we reach the edge of the ice sheet — it took us 15 days!Arrivés sur le bord de la calotte polaire après 1 500 km de kite-ski depuis Ilulissat. Il nous aura fallu 15 jours !

We carry about 260 kg of equipment, which we must haul down on our backs — impossible to pull the pulkas here. We divide the load into four trips, each of us carrying 30–35 kg per trip.

After immense effort, we finally manage to bring all our gear down to the fjord, where we are scheduled to be picked up by boat and taken to the village of Qaanaaq.

We wait six days for the boat. Here, in the far north of Greenland, it’s the transition season. Just days earlier, Bowdoin Fjord was still choked with ice, and sea ice near Qaanaaq made launching boats impossible. Gradually, the ice retreated, opening the water.

At this time of year, the sun dips toward the horizon but never sets. In the evening, we admire the magnificent skies and icebergs.

On the way, we take one last look at Greenland’s sublime coastline.

The Arctic is warming three times faster than anywhere else on Earth. The future of our planet depends largely on the health of the poles. Today, Greenland loses the equivalent of 30 million tons of ice every hour. If this ice were to melt entirely, it would raise global sea levels by 7 meters.

Science has no impact unless it is communicated. With Heïdi’s scientific expertise, my polar experience, and our shared passion for ice, we strive to make our discoveries accessible to everyone, bringing the polar regions closer to people’s minds and hearts.

This expedition could not have taken place without the support of our partners: Nollet, Egerie, and Garmin — a huge thank you to them.