CLIMBING MONT BLANC
Via the Italian route and the Gonella hut
The highest peak in the Alps, Mont Blanc is also the highest mountain in Western Europe. Although I’d seen it many times, I’d never climbed it. In July 2020, my friend Cédric Gras, travel writer and mountaineer, asked me to accompany him on a few mountain hikes.
To acclimatize, we first climbed the Dômes de Miage. Then we decided to climb Mont Blanc via the Italian route. Less frequented, wilder and longer than the classic route, it lived up to its promise.
Les Dômes de Miage
Off to the Conscrits refuge with Cédric Gras and Christophe Raylat for acclimatization on the Dômes de Miage, with a view to climbing Mont Blanc at the end of the week.
On the path to the refuge, we come across ibex, chamois and marmots. It’s the teeming life of the mountains.
We wake up in the middle of the night to set off for the Dômes de Miage. We rope up on the glacier.
As the sun rises, the temperature rises again and we can turn off our headlamps.
Cédric and I came down from the summit, which rises to 3,673 meters.
Les dômes de Miage. Considered one of the finest ridge climbs in the Mont Blanc massif. Access is via the Tré-la-Tête glacier.
Ascent of Mont Blanc via the Italian route and the Gonella refuge
The Italian side begins with the ascent of the Miage glacier. The lower part of the glacier is a black glacier: covered in debris.
We make our way up the glacier. On our right, numerous seracs crown the mountain.
As we climb, snow and ice reappear.
Some open crevasses remind us of the need for constant vigilance when on a glacier.
We head for the Gonella refuge at 3,071 metres altitude. We reach it in 4h30.
We make our way, roped and cramped, over the ridges towards the Aiguilles Grises pass. It’s now 3:23 a.m.
The points of light in the mountains are the headlamps of the other roped parties we are following.
Sunrise over the massif.
The Vallot hut at 4,362 meters above sea level, on the Mont Blanc normal route. Alongside other climbers, we stay there for an hour or so to rest, eat and drink.
Ahead, the final ascent. The summit of Mont Blanc in our sights. Step by step, we climb slowly, the lack of oxygen at this altitude making itself felt.
Behind us, the Dôme du Goûter and the track leading to the refuge of the same name. We’ll take it on the descent. This icy landscape above the clouds reminds me a little of Antarctica. Where man has no place.
For my first ascent, I’m lucky enough to have exceptional weather and a breathtaking view of the whole massif.
To the summit of Mont Blanc, at an altitude of 4,810 metres! After a 7-hour ascent from the Gonella refuge. This is Cédric’s fifth ascent, and my first.
We descend slowly, ice axe in hand.
The famous arête des bosses. In the background, the Chamonix valley.
Ahead of us, the Goûter refuge, where we’ll rest for an hour before heading back down into the valley. We’ll arrive at the Nid d’Aigle station at 4pm to catch the train to Saint-Gervais.
Climbing Mont Blanc is not technical in itself. It does, however, require a good knowledge of the mountain, as well as rope skills and glacier walking techniques. Acclimatization is essential for a successful summit. Numerous guides lead groups up the mountain every summer.
Many thanks to my partners Petzl (crampons, rope, helmet, ice axe…), Lowa (mountaineering boots), Osprey (mountaineering backpack), TSL Outdoor (walking poles) and Canada Goose (down jacket) for their support.
And thank you Cedric for taking me to the top!
