CROSSING THE PYRENEES ON FOOT
From the Atlantic to the Mediterranean via the Haute Route
In the summer of 2022, I crossed the Pyrenees on foot from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. I wanted to immerse myself in the wild, close to home. I took the Haute Route Pyrénéenne (HRP) – unlike the GR10, this itinerary is unmarked and stays at altitude to hike along ridges and summits.
With Ingrid, my hiking partner for this adventure, we set off from Hendaye in the Basque country for a 32-day trek to Banyuls-sur-Mer. A Franco-Spanish adventure covering 800 km and 42,000 m of ascent.
CLOTHING: 1 pair of shorts, 2 pairs of boxer shorts, 2 pairs of socks, 2 breathable T-shirts, 1 down jacket, 1 pair of tights, 1 pair of trail shoes, 1 K-way, 1 cap, 1 buff, 1 pair of sunglasses
EQUIPMENT: 1 folding mug, 1 folding plate, 1 sleeping bag, 1 bivvy bag, 1 inflatable ground sheet, 1 ground sheet repair kit, 1 Raidlight 24L backpack, 2 75 cL water bottles, 1 pair of trail poles, 1 stove (gas + burner), 1 lighter, 1 saucepan + lid + handle, 1 long-handled spoon, 1 Swiss Army knife, 1 microfiber towel, 1 headlamp.
ELECTRONICS: 1 external battery + cable, 1 telephone + charger, 1 pair of headphones, 1 reading light, 1 solar panel (never used), 1 pair of binoculars
HYGIENE / HEALTH: Compeed, elastoplast, needle, aquatabs, doliprane, 1 hard soap, 1 nail clipper, 1 toothbrush, 1 toothpaste, sunscreen, Nok anti-chafing cream
*not everything is in the photo
Hendaye in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques, the starting point of our adventure across the Pyrenees. I’m carrying 8.5 kg with 1.5 L of water, food for 5 days and all camp equipment. To reach this weight, we chose not to take a tent and to leave with the bare minimum. We’ll be sleeping under the stars at night in bivvy bags.
Here’s the profile of the walk ahead. Let’s get moving!
Baïgorry union forest. Unsurprisingly, the Basque country welcomes us under a sky laden with humidity.
In the foothills of the Basque Country. All this greenery delights the eye. We enjoy the green slopes before the aridity of the summits. Front view.
Back view.
“Some men hoped to go down in history. There were a few of us who preferred to disappear into geography.”
– Sur les chemins noirs, Sylvain Tesson
As the fog clears, the first peaks appear.
The breathtaking sight of a sea of clouds invading the entire valley.
On our way we meet many shepherds who graze their flocks in summer. Milking sometimes takes place twice a day. This is an opportunity to gain a better understanding of the pastoral environment and stock up on cheese.
Hundreds and hundreds of ewes. They are marked with paint so that the flocks don’t mix.
Our route winds its way between France and Spain, over peaks and passes. We aim to walk around 25 kilometers a day, or 8 to 10 hours, depending on the terrain and gradient.
We take advantage of the (icy!) streams to rinse off after a day’s walking in the mountains.
Sometimes under the watchful eye of a Patou. He was completely resigned and more interested in watching me take a dip than in looking after his sheep.
Pic du Midi d’Ossau. The emblematic peak of the Ossau valley, it culminates at 2,884 meters. Arriving at the foot of this mountain is a first step for us. It foreshadows the many summits to come and the beginning of the Hautes-Pyrénées.
The Pombie refuge. Nestled between pastoral and high mountain environments, it lies in the heart of the Pyrenees National Park. The weather forecast calls for heavy rain, so we’ll be staying the night.
Since we left, we’ve been eating like four. Walking takes its toll.
View from the refuge.
Early in the morning, the mountain was dripping. It rained all night.
It’s rare for the mountain to be equipped on the HRP. Here, on a particularly aerial passage, a handrail has been installed.
Last light of evening.
Towards the Arrémoulit refuge, our route takes us over several scree slopes. As well as slowing us down, they are particularly unstable and require our full attention to avoid injury.
Walking on this rocky chaos is particularly demanding. It reminds me of my expedition to the Fedchenko glacier in the Tajik Pamir in Central Asia. I can hardly believe I’m in France!
We chose trail shoes to be fast and agile on the descents. We only have a month to complete the crossing.
Facing the impressive Vignemale from the Oulettes de Gaube refuge. At 3,298 metres, it’s the highest peak in the French Pyrenees. At its foot lies the small Oulettes de Gaube glacier. Sadly, there aren’t many of them left… Like their Alpine neighbors, they are melting at an insane rate and are set to disappear from the Pyrenees by 2050.
5-star overnight stay. Setting up camp involves unpacking the bag. Inflate the ground sheet, take out the sleeping bag and bivvy bag.
To eat, we boil water from a stream on the stove. Then it’s soup, semolina or Chinese noodles, cheese and chocolate.
We’ve covered just over a third of the route. The body is gradually honing and accepting the constant repetition of climbs and descents. We stock up on food in the refuges and the very few grocery stores on our route. Nothing superfluous in our bag. We use everything we’ve brought with us.
The summits are often the haunt of griffon vultures. They circle in the air and take shelter in the crevices of the wall.
In the dangerous passages, I courageously send Ingrid to lead the way.
An old sheepfold that will serve as our camp for the night.
When the weather is mixed, we take refuge in unguarded shelters or huts to ensure we have a roof over our heads in case of heavy rain.
The magnificent Forau de Aigualluts waterfall in the Bénasque valley.
Leaving the Portillon refuge and before crossing a pass at an altitude of almost 3,000 metres, we set foot on our first névés.
From the Tuc de Molières, 3,009 meters above sea level. We begin a long incursion into Catalonia.
Turning around, we can admire the Maladeta massif. This is the highest massif and the first glacial massif in the Pyrenees. The peak on the left is the Aneto. At 3,404 meters, it is the highest peak in the Pyrenees.
A lull from an unguarded hut, where we took shelter to dry our gear. In August, the Pyrenees are often troubled by heavy thunderstorms.
Ingrid writing in her logbook.
Another scree. The HRP is giving us a hard time. This route is won mile after mile. We’re alone in the world. Sometimes we don’t meet anyone in a single day’s walk. This feeling of solitude is made all the more intense by the fact that our phones are in “airplane mode” and there is very rarely any reception.
O hisse et oh!
Estany Major de la Gallina, from the Calberante pass.
We cross into Andorra, the third country on this journey. Here we meet up with shepherds and their animals. They are always accompanied by Patous and Border Collies. The former ensure the sheep’s safety by protecting them from predators. The latter, guided by voice or whistle, assist the shepherd in moving the flock. It’s moving to see man and animal working in such harmony.
Andorran orange sky.
Étang de Lanoux, the largest lake in the French Pyrenees.
The ascent of the Pic du Canigou is our last major summit (2,784 m altitude). This last mountain has a special flavour, marking the end of the Pyrenean massif.
“He who wishes to go far spares his mount”. In this case, my feet. I look after them regularly to protect them from the blisters to which I’m easily prone. We’ve still got a hundred kilometers to go to the finish.
Encounter with a spotted salamander in damp undergrowth during a rain shower.
As we make our way through the Pyrénées-Orientales, the terrain flattens out, giving us a glimpse of the end of the route.
After a final pass, the Mediterranean Sea at last!
Arrival in Banyuls-sur-Mer after 32 days in the mountains. Tired, the soles of our shoes worn, but happy to have linked the Atlantic to the Mediterranean.
This hike brings together everything I love about adventure: uncertainty, effort, spectacular scenery and total immersion in nature.
The Pyrenees are wild. They’re hard-won, yet accessible to all. We are incredibly lucky to have such beautiful mountains in our country.
Thanks to my hiking partner with whom I shared the climbs and descents. Thanks also to my partners Raidlight, Häglofs, Patagonia and Asics for equipping me and to Lyophilisé & Co for the freeze-dried food.
